S2000 F20c Toda Dry Sump Kit!

The post has been a long time coming. I’ve been super busy with work and life…. not much has changed with the s2k besides bolting on the rear and front subframe with knuckles. Pretty much making it a real roller once I get some wheels. I did some small things along the way, such as installing power flex bushings. I got a whole bunch of goodies I’ve been hoarding over the years to install eventually…

The F20c Toda Dry Sump Kit is something I’ve been eying for years. Literally years… if you look back to posts like this from 2011, I’ve always looked at these parts in envy. A year or so back, someone posted this one for sale, after I found out it is DISCONTINUED, it was a done deal, the hoarder in me couldn’t resist.

The thing about these parts is that there is not much information out there besides the stock photos and description on Toda Racing’s site. I emailed Toda Racing USA and Japan for more information regarding the product, they replied to me saying that they have ZERO documentation. Even the person I bought this from, who bought this brand new told me this did not come with documentation. Kinda crazy when someone spends over $10,000 USD on this brand new and they receive no instructions. No worries, I’m crazy enough to think about installing this on a street car. Think is the keyword, but in reality, all I want to do is document this for the other S2k Otaku out there. This is some true nerd S2k nerd shit going on, hang on….

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
I’ve told you guys I’m a hoarder right? I was able to mock this setup on a spare blown engine I’ve had sitting around that someone gave me. The previous owner of the engine dropped a valve so, the engine needs a ton of love if I want to resurrect it, F24 stroker engine anyone? I also threw on my Toda ITBs for shits and giggles because it reminded of the Toda Racing stock photo I’ve been drooling over for years….

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Same same but different.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
Let’s start with the crank pulley. The Toda Racing F20c dry sump kit uses an OEM stock S2000 crank pulley. The pulley is machined out to fit the gear that goes to the dry sump pump.

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Here is the Crank pulley exploded. You can see how the OEM crank pulley has been machined for dry sump gear.

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There are bolts that mount from behind the crank pulley to mount the inner piece. Don’t forget to put your crank pulley bolt in before you bolt the piece in!

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The rear, you can see all the holes where it bolts into the crank pulley

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The front where the dry sump gear is mounted.

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Dry sump pump gear on the crank pulley….
So the order of operation is…. Put crank pulley bolt in crank pulley, bolt in metal gear holder, (no idea what to call that thing), screw in and torque down crank pulley bolt to engine, there is a hole in it to access the crank pulley bolt. Lastly bolt in dry sump pulley and install belt at the same time to the pump.

Mounted with the belt on….

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump

You can see how the belt runs the pump here. From what I can tell, most of the other dry sump units that toda racing produces also runs this very pump. If you were to look at their bespoke K20 Formula 4 engines or Super GT engines they all use this type of pump…. I don’t know what hole is oil-in and what hole is oil-out yet. These are things I need to figure out.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
All the bolt holes underneath the pump I have no idea what they do.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
From the pictures of the few cars that run this online, those holes below are unused.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
If we turn our attention to the oil drain bolt towards the rear of the pain, it is the same bolt used in the OEM oil pan. I love how they retained this and did not change the bolt to a different size or pitch.  They are two oil drain bolts to drain oil from the “pan.”

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
What’s these 3 holes here? This is why I think this is great for a street car. No other Dry Sump Kit manufacture for the F20c has these bolt holes. This is where the bracket for the OEM AC Compressor goes. So in Theory you can run AC with this! I’m not gonna play race car driver, I love having AC in my S2k as it gets very hot in the summer, and I’m all about the hardtop 24/7 life.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
If we look at the bottom of the Dry Sump pan you can see the separate sections this pan has. Another cool things to note, This Toda Racing Dry Sump Unit is casted from magnesium. Yes, this might weigh more than other kits out in the market but I feel like this is the most thoroughly thought out kit out there, shy of like IF HPD make a dry sump kit for this like how they do for the K series, where the dry sump pump is ran off of the internal oil pump chain…… Maybe AT power would make something like that if there is enough demand?

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
Turning out attention to inside the engine.  This plate is mounted to the block to divert the oil to the new sump.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
So what’s that hole right there.  That hole is where the OEM Oil pump would pump oil to, if you were to follow that hole up the engine, you would end up at the oil filter….So that is another super super cool thing about this kit.  YOU CAN RETAIN YOUR OIL FILTER LOCATION! Yep, no need to remote mount your oil filter to run it inline like the other kits on the market.  See I told you this was extremely thought out.

S2000 Toda Racing Dry SumpO-ring on the dry sump I should replace….

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
This is why I can use the OEM Oil filter location, how cool is that!

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
I needed some washers to mount the engine, so I found these cam trigger gears…. apparently they are discontinued and I shouldn’t be using it like this…

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Toda ITBS looking pretty.  I made a post why these are rad…  Here

S2000 Toda Racing Dry Sump
Favorite part of the Toda Racing ITBs, the coolant breather to make burping your coolant system easier.

That’s it guys, hopefully you enjoyed the in depth look of the Toda Racing Dry Sump kit for the F20C / S2000.  I really wish there was something like this when I was searching.  There is seriously nothing out there.  Now my new issue, how the hell do I mount a dry sump tank in my car, I don’t want to put it in the trunk nor do I want to put it at the passenger footwell.  I don’t even know what size tank to buy…. that’s for me to find out.. Hopefully running by 2030 haha.

Parts Review/ DIY: ASM THROTTLE BODY IS-09 + ASM THROTTLE BODY SPACER IS-09

 

What really brings me pride with this S2000 blog is that I do installs/Parts Reviews of rare or expensive s2000 parts.  Parts that usually have just a small blurb written about them on minkara in Japanese and there is barely any in depth information about it anywhere else on the net.   We all know Japanese tuners really suck at internet-ing.  I’ve been lagging on the S2k since I’ve been trying to remodel my home bathroom on my own with no prior knowledge of really working on homes……it’s coming together slowly.

My buddy Princess Yow purchased the ASM throttle body and ASM throttle body spacer locally.  He’s not too much of a wrench, and installing a throttle body on an S2k is simple install so I had him swing by the Ant Garage, I love showing people how easy it is to wrench on their cars, especially S2000s, everything is super easy to work on.


So what is different with the ASM throttle body compared to an OEM one?  The ASM throttle body is a slightly larger diameter.  The entry diameter of the throttle body is 70mm while the exit is 66.5mm.   Of course since Princess Yow has a 06+ model, we have the version made for DBW cars.


The ASM throttle body is made by Toda Racing.


Princess Yow also got the ASM throttle body spacer to go with his ASM throttle body.  What this spacer does is smooth out the transition of the big throttle body to the stock intake manifold.  You can also accomplish this by porting the intake manifold, but this is much less invasive.


The ASM throttle body spacer comes with 4 bolts and 2 throttle body gaskets.  Once for each side of the throttle body.


The best feature of the throttle body spacer, this beautiful ASM logo…. If you have an Ap2, make sure you buy the AP2 version since the intake manifold opening diameter is slightly larger than an AP1.


Love anything that says TODA Racing on it…..


Princess Yow and I see eye to eye on many things…. He’s also a huge fan of quality JDM products.  His engine bay consists of a Mugen intake, ASM Tower bar, Amuse header, and ASM cooling plate….  He’s running Ohlins, a Koyo radiator, and samco hoses in case you guys were wondering.


I dived into his piping hot engine bay…..I already removed the intake arm in this picture.


The stock throttle body removed, it was quite easy.  Just remove one clip holding in the harness, and 2 hoses that run coolant through the throttle body.  Man DBW cars are easy to work on…. no need to take of the throttle cable.


I attempted to install the throttle body spacer… First gasket on.


2nd Gasket….


and ASM throttle body….Love that ASM logo up top! At this moment I realized why the throttle body spacer came with 4 long bolts….  The OEM studs that hold in the throttle body were too short.


Feels good putting more ASM parts on the car.


I’ve taken off my fair share of bolt studs in my day.  So to take off the studs off of this application, take two nuts that thread on the stud, tighten them against each other with 2 wrenches, and then with one wrench spin it counter clockwise to remove the stud it is attached to.


I didn’t use these nuts pictured, but nuts I had in my bin…. But you get the idea.  I have a video coming out soon.


Here it is all installed!  Keep in mind since you installed a spacer, this pretty much moved everything throttle body forward 1/2″.  Don’t forget to reconnect the 2 coolant lines back in and plug in the map and throttle sensor.


If you are OCD, feel free to trim out the area that the throttle body gasket protrudes.


The intake arm gave us a little resistance since everything was pushed forward 1/2 a inch… It was silicon so it wasn’t too bard.  I don’t know why Princess Yow doesn’t run clamps on some of this stuff….


The intake arm is now rubbing against the ASM strut bar.  I believe if you retain the OEM arm, it does not do this.

Since we were already wrenching…..

After we tackled the throttle body install.  We did a full fluid change, transmission, oil, and differential, and installed two new OEM remanufactured S2000 rear calipers…..


The finish alone is why this is better than autozone remanufactured calipers.  I noticed his recently installed autozone calipers were already rusting!  I believe he got these from Majestic Honda, a very popular online Honda dealership….


The rear calipers installed!


Nothing can beat new.


We were wrenching late into the night… I didn’t really take pictures of his car since I was getting pretty tired at this point.  But he is rocking some Mugen GP wheels.  Don’t see too many of these on cars nowadays.  I think we finished wrenching around 5am…. We started around 10pm.


to finish off this post, check out his Spoon calipers! I took this picture right after I helped him bleed his brake system….  For spoon calipers, we bleed the inner bleeder first and then the outside bleeder.

 

Parts Review: Toda High Power Clutch

I haven’t really seen any good insights on the Toda High Power Clutch while I was searching for info regarding this clutch, so I thought I would write a quick review about it.

These are pictures of my Toda High Power clutch before I sold it…..

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Front clutch cover shot of the Toda High Power Clutch.

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Does the front clutch cover look surprisingly simliar to the Exedy Hyper Single clutch? Or maybe they aren’t many ways to design a clutch cover.

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The Flywheel cover is held on by allen bolts

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The actual clutch disk is a Exedy unit that you can buy replacements via Exedy.  The part number is TA095.  This one is obviously worn after years of use.

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The flywheel is the standard Toda chromoly flywheel.  I inquired with toda if it is okay to resurface this flywheel and there response is as follows: ”

The TODA Chrome-moly steel flywheels cannot be re-surfaced – this is inherent to this type of flywheel design (Chrome-Moly, whether it’s from Toda, Mugen, Jun, etc). 

The metal gains its strength from the surface treatment process.   But when a flywheel is resurfaced, all the surface metal which is heat treated for strength, is removed, exposing untreated metal.  “
So basically it is not wise to resurface your toda flywheel.

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Toda High Power Clutch-8

How does it feel?  The high power clutch disk feels like an Exedy Hyper Single.  A bit heavy for the street due to it’s 6 puck clutch and requires a good amount of effort to get the car to move.  The Toda flywheel on the clutch kit does allow the engine to rev faster.  On the race track or with upgraded power, this clutch would provide the clamping forces you would need, but for the street I believe it is overkill.  This is probably why Toda released their Ojisama Spec Toda clutch, aka old man special.  I am curious if Exedy is the white label that produces the clutch cover for Toda and all toda did was provide their flywheel with this kit. Since we know Exedy makes the clutch disk and the clutch cover looks identical to the Exedy Hyper Single besides the color difference and the small grooves on the cover.

Please see a picture I grabbed off the GoTuning website.JsRacing_JHH01SD-CH03S

Parts Review/Pick Ups: Toda S2000 ITBs / Sports Injection

Hey guys.  I’ve had this part for a while now, holding onto it hoping that one day I can resume my build…..  If you guys know me, you guys would also know I’ve done the ITBs thing before.  In a previous life I had Jenvey ITBS. You can check it out here, jesus it’s crazy to think I was only 23 when I made the first post on this blog.  I regret not taking more pictures….

Here are a few pictures off of my flickr of the jenvey units:

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When you receive the Jenvey Kit, it’s unassembled, so you have to go about assembling the kit yourself.  The coolant temp sensor port to the right, you have to drill and tap that in yourself.  The coolant line to the left, that is not standard, I had to cut and weld from an intake manifold I had laying around.  Take note of the flange of the coolant exit, the bolt behind that flange is a pain in the ass to get once it is on the car.  I had to use an allen bolt and cut off the head of an allen key to reach it.

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You can see how I welded the factory coolant line here, so I can retain the bleed functionality.  I later cut this off since it wasn’t flush with the head…. dummy me, I should of checked beforehand.  Those vacuum ports you see, I had to drill, tap, and screw in each of those nipples…. (Stalker photography was a logo I was working with for awhile… I wonder what happened to that adobe file.)

My Jenveys waiting to be installed

All assembled and glorious looking.  Unfortunately, I was never happy with the fit and finish of these units.  I had to source my own injectors, I went with Ford Racing Injectors 440cc Injectors.


For the TPS, jenvey made an OEM s2k TPS adapter which I had to buy later on….

The problem I have with the Jenvey ITBs, that I’ve always repeated, is that the Jenvey ITBs were not created with the S2000 in mind.  They were created for F20/F22c kit cars.  The lack of thought, i.e the missing coolant bleed port, bad coolant flange design.  Hayward performance remedied this issue by creating their own ITB flange, and still utilize the Jenvey throttle bodies.


I’ve always wanted the Toda Racing ITBs.  I wish I went with this setup from the get-go. The Toda ITBs comes with a Toyota based TPS system and in the instructions how to wire this up to my current setup.

The fuel rail it comes with is beautiful.  Super heavy duty, it’s a billet piece.  The jenvey fuel rail feels like a cheap aluminum tube compared to this.


I love how these are compatible with the OEM s2000 injectors, so that cuts cost of sourcing different injectors and allows you the option of upgrading injectors later on.


For the Jenvey ITBs, I had to convert my fuel system to an -6 AN system.  For the Toda units, all you have to do is bolt the OEM Banjo bolt system to this fuel rail.  Little things like this is what I really like about the Toda system and JDM products in general.  The level is meticulousness is unrivaled by any other manufacture.



The TODA ITB units come pre-assembled.  They are based off of the Toyota AE101 ITBs.  The one I have is the 88mm units.


As you can see the whole is already tapped for the coolant temperature sensor and the flange for the coolant exit, is where the OEM intake manifold is, so it is much more accessible to bolt this to the head…


Same TPS as the Toyota AE101.


You can see how some of the vacuum ports work, there is 2 per runner.

Closer look of the linkage between throttles.


Of course this will plug and play with the OEM throttle cable, while the Jenvey units you have to come up with something yourself.


One port with a barbed nipple already.  Probably for brake booster.


The trumpets feel incredibly solid, as if they are machined out of a block of aluminum.  The Jenvey throttle trumpets felt really cheap to me, you can even bend the Jenvey trumpets by hand.


The capped off vacuum ports on the flange, and on the flange of the runners.

The knob you see in the middle if the main throttle idle adjustment… Not pictured is the coolant bleed port on the other side of the ITBs.

Overall, I’m really excited for the Toda ITBs, I mean it’s the same system that the ASM race car uses!

PickUps/Parts Review: TODA RACING 60-70MM CATALYST ADAPTER (TestPipe)

I got some parts reviews I’ve been meaning to put up…. Since I have an ASM 70mm Titanium exhaust (Which I believe is the best S2k exhaust ever, much better than the SS version, the sound is so crisp!), I’ve always ran it with an invidia 70mm testpipe which is 70mm straight through, for what that is, the Invidia unit is a great value for what it is and fitment is spot on. This Toda Racing 60-70MM CATALYST ADAPTER, makes perfect sense to me, smooth transitions should mean higher exhaust velocities right?  I’m not an engineer, but it makes me feel better because it says Toda racing and has a sticker for RACING USE ONLY 

Toda Test Pipe-2I’m a huge fan of Toda Racing.  It seems like every Honda shop uses their products to build their engines, including the world famous KTECH….. and they run engines in Super GT…. How cool is that!

Toda Test Pipe
Of course another shoutout to RHDJapan some of the beautiful benefits of globalization….

Toda Test Pipe-4Quick peek inside….

Toda Test Pipe-3A good look at the transition….

Toda Test Pipe-6side by side shot with the harbor freight jack

Toda Test Pipe-5

Toda Test Pipe-7Absolutely beautiful….

Toda Test Pipe-8
Welds for days.

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Toda Test Pipe-12I love how this comes with an OEM Quality Gasket.

Toda Test Pipe-13Bolted on the car….

Toda Test Pipe-14Mated with the ASM 70 MM Titanium Exhaust……

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The only thing that would complete this would be an ASM or Toda Exhaust Manifold….. If only…..

Toda Test Pipe-16

After installing this on the car, the car was noticeably quieter on pulls.  I would assume this is because the air is moving faster now since it has a smoother transition, while before it was a 60mm exit on the header dumped directly into 70mm test pipe.  Honestly the car felt the same powerwise.

Parts Review: Toda A2 CamShaft

First post of 2016!

There isn’t much information online regarding Toda Camshafts or camshafts for the S2000 in general. They are different schools of thoughts, some people believe the s2k engine is so finely tuned that adding aftermarket camshafts will in fact reduce performance and another school of thought where enthusiasts think camshafts will net performance gains, but no one has figured out the magical formula yet. They are a few companies that promise a revolutionary camshaft that will be out “soon” and change the game on S2k camshafts, but nothing has come to fruition so far….at least within the past 7-8 years I’ve been in the S2k game.

I’ve always had a trust in Toda Racing Products. It is a company that has the engineering resources and know-how to build Super GT engines, Formula 3 spec Honda engines, and even their own in house Engine. They are THE F20c engine parts supplier in Japan, all the top s2k tuning shops run their engines, like Arvou, ASM, Toshi from I heart s2k, and M&M racing……

After dealing with aftermarket manufactures that make products for many different makes and models i.e my Jenvey ITBs… things fit but it’s never 100% and it’s always just a bit off….I find the fit and finish of the Japanese tuning companies to be spot on. They tend not to do a one size fits all approach to manufacturing their parts, but rather make sure that the part fits and function like OEM.

A long long while back, like a whileeeeee back I bought these Toda A2 Cams in not so great condition for a great deal…..I already have Toda Valve springs installed so I thought why not…..

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As you can see, the bearing surfaces on the Camshafts have a lot to be desired…

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It looks like there was a low oil situation which caused some bearing scoring…..

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I grabbed a micrometer and made sure everything is within spec

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It took some searching, but I finally found a shop that can refurbish camshafts….
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I had these camshafts refurbished by Nikos over at SVM Camshafts….

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They look as good as new after he was done with them!

After I got the camshaft back from Nikos, I decided to have them WPC treated to further reduce friction so this doesn’t happen again.

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Here is what they look like after I got the camshafts WPC treated! The WPC treatment gives the metal a milky luster.

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Oh yeahhhhhhhh…….

I didn’t stop there. Since I had most of the valvetrain apart, I decided to WPC treat the the Cam Holders and Caps, Rocker Shafts, and vtec rocker Pins….

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Everything in my Super JDM JUN box to go to WPC in Torrance…..

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Working in an apartment ain’t easy

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A few days later I picked this up, all WPC treated.

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That Yummy Milky WPC luster…

Now that everything is WPC treated, next step is to mill down the Exhaust Camshaft Valve Rocker followers since it will interfere with the Toda cams. I noticed that most manufactures that make somewhat aggressive cams for the S2000 do this, I looked at a build inline pro did and they did the same to their exhaust rockers.

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Here is the spec sheet from Toda recommending where to mill.

It took me all day with an electric harbor freight die grinder and a carbide bit, I asked a few shops around if they could do it for me such as Evasive, Ballade, and other popular S2k shops around here, but they all wanted absurd prices, like $1000+…..

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I tried to tape off the roller bearings so materials don’t get in….

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After 8 hours of grinding, this is my finished product! I can see why they wanted so much in labor. I tried looking for a machine shop that was willing to do this for me, but they didn’t seem confident in the task.

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I installed everything, torqued it all down to spec, and did a valve adjustment. I went for a quick run, I noticed my exhaust sounds much more aggressive in the mid range, definitely has a nice Bark to it. My friend Areen with the Spoon’d out S2k noticed my exhaust sounds much deeper than his ASM 70mm….but then again my exhaust is the titanium version too….. I feel like my car has a slightly better mid range, but it could all be in my head. The Toda A2 Cams don’t require a tune and can run on the standard ECU like my car….. I’ll post a driving video if I ever get a chance to let you guys hear!

Update

I’ve been having strange issues with my car recently.  I was driving and the car seemed to be overheating and there was no pressure in the upper radiator hose.  I tried bleeding the hell out of the system but it didn’t work.  So once again, I canceled my very needed tune and brought my car back into my garage.  I pulled the head off a couple of days ago and sent it to the machine shop to get resurfaced, even though it wasn’t warped too badly, still within spec, I just wanted to do it for good measure. My dad helped me install my Toda Valve springs I had. My oil pan is off, so I bought an oil pan baffle from alloy craft and will get that welded/installed shortly. I bought a mugen radiator cap and mugen thermostat for good measure, I’m still waiting on these parts to come in. I really wish the Jenvey units had a bleeder valve, it would make my life much easier.  I am probably going to buy a Greddy radiator breather, which is essentially an external bleeder.  So far if I quantify everything it is:

Toda Valve Springs : 418.00
OEM headgasket: 55.00
HondaBond: 11.59
Mugen radiator cap: 40.00
Mugen Thermostat: 60.00 (from s2ki member)
Alloy craft baffle: 60.00

So as you can see the rough total is: 644.59

But since I already have the toda valve springs it is 226.59

Considering that I still have to get the baffle welded in, there are many other costs not reported here.