DIY: ITB Filters

I found this cool DIY on minkara. I should buy some filters at Mitsuwa so its more JDM, because I’m such a JDM whore. Even though I can’t read minkara for the most part, I think its much more useful than s2ki these days. Unfortunately S2000 owners are getting younger and younger and s2ki is going in the way of Honda-tech. These kids are too cheap to buy decent tires for their car and would rather spend their money on knock-off parts. If you’re not going to do it right keep it stock! Minkara is so awesome, where else can you find a writeup on how to wire up an ASM Mugen Multivision Meter? Or find pages of LEGIT Recaro and Bride seats pictures?

A Unique Mod II

This idea started like any other idea, searching various car forums. I stumbled upon a clubrsx posting about doing an accord key retrofit and making it work on their rsx. The accord key is an all-in-one key, that has the unlock button and the truck popper on one key. I researched quite heavily why this doesn’t work and why no one has tried this.

I posted this on s2ki, “The accord key has the key and the key fob on the same unit. Currently this is not possible to use on the s2k because the s2k keyless entry control module(KECM)has a 307.9 mhz receiver (FCCID E4EG8DJ). This is however, possible on the RSX because it has a 313mhz receiver(FCC ID OUCG8D-355-A).

If I can get this to work, it would then be possible to use the RDX/TL switchblade key also, as seen.

There are a couple of problems to this, the USDM has an 18pin connector, while the UKDM and JDM have a 14 pin connector. I cannot find a full Wiring diagram for the USDM KECM anywhere, just the wiring diagrams for alarms and such. I did find one for the euro-spec connector.. Another problem is the immobilizer, I don’t have to worry about this since Kpro disables the immobilizer. If it is anything like the RSX, you should be able to pry open the key, and swap the immobilizer to the new key.

I have a couple of theoretical solutions to this. One is to get a UKDM KECM with pigtails and use the wiring diagrams of both to wire it in. Another is to see if the antennas in the KECM are the same, and solder it out and into the USDM unit.

If anyone has a full pinout of the USDM, UKDM, and JDM Keyless Entry Control Module, I would sincerely appreciate it.

I know it doesn’t seem worth it for the amount of work and money I’m putting into it, but I think this would a pretty cool upgrade and very OEM looking. I hope someone with more electrical knowledge could help me out.”

Basically, my ideas were to retrofit a car that ran on the same frequency to work with the s2000 or use the UK-spec keyless control unit to work with the car and use an UK-Spec accord key that ran on the same frequency as their Keyless Unit. I read anything I could on the TL/RSX/Civic keyless system. Further researched proved that running those keyless units would not be a very easy job.

Using, I finally ran across a keyless control unit from an 04-05 s2000.  This is exactly what I need. The earlier model s2000 in England used a different keyfob. I bought it (not cheap), It came in 2-3 weeks later, luckily it came with a keyfob, unluckily, it didn’t come with pigtails.  As you can see in the picture, the pin out is a bit different between both of the units. I ran to my harness that I bought for my cluster retrofit awhile back and hacked up the connectors so it would fit into the unit. Now all I needed to do was figure out how exactly to wire this together. An s2ki member posted the pin out and wiring diagram of both of the units, all I had to do was figure out what it meant and how it went together. After comparing both of the diagrams, I figured it out. There are some things included on the the US version not available on the UK version, such as the horn when you press the unlock twice, or the lights flashing when you hit the buttons, or the ability to open the passenger using a second click.

USDM Pinout

UKDM Pinout

UKDM Wiring Diagram

USDM Wiring Diagram

Eventually, I wired everything up and nicely. It worked with the supplied keyfob. I ordered an accord key from the UK, it came in a couple weeks later. I programmed it into my system, it worked great. I tried cutting my accord key blade and JB-welding it into my accord key like what the RSXers do, because the ap1 doesn’t use the “laser cut” keys, but it didn’t turn out so sturdy. I was afraid it would brake apart when I drive it if my leg hit the key. I went ahead and performed an AP2 cylinder retrofit and cut my other accord key to match it and swapped over the internals of the UK accord key unit. Everything fired up as it should. I even went a step further and ordered a red H from japan from the FD2 civic. Its been a long journey, but with the help of the resources of S2ki, I finally figured it out.

The final product:

A Unique Mod

There are things I like and don’t like about the Ap1.  On one hand, I like having the 9k redline.  On the other hand they are things that I can definitely improve on, such as looks which I addressed with my ap2 conversion .  When I first got this car three years ago, I immediately noticed something was missing. There is no clock.  How the heck am I suppose to go places without knowing what time it is!!!! The ap2 comes with a clock on its cluster, but missing the glorious 9k redline that I bought this car for.  After many searches around s2ki, I came across pictures of the UK-SPEC S2k.  The UK-spec S2000 retained the F20c, through all its model years, even after their “ap2” facelift.  The cluster on that car has a clock, check, it has a 9k redline, check, MPH on the speedometer (they use MPH not KPH for speed), check,  just what I wanted.

My first task was to track down an UK ap2 cluster. I was in luck when I found one on clubrsx for 200 shipped.  I paid the member, and after a month of him saying he was “out-of-town”, saying he was going to “ship it out tomorrow”, I finally filed a PayPal complaint. I got my money back from PayPal. Surprisingly, he PM’ed me and told me he was really out-of-town and just sent it to me.  I received it a week later, and paid him. I knew the Ap2 cluster has two plugs while the Ap1 cluster has four plugs, and after finding a wiring diagram, it was just a simple task of rewiring the plugs. I sourced an entire ap2 harness from S2ki. I then tried to remove the entire wiring harness from my car and replace it with this one, unfortunately they are not the same. If I wanted to really swap harnesses, I would have to swap both the dash harnesses. I wasn’t in the mood of buying another harness and removing the dash, so I just spliced it in. In retrospect, it would have been better for me if I just repinned the connectors, but then again I’m horrible at repinning. I always end up breaking the connectors. With the Ap2 cluster connector in back in, I plugged my cluster in. It fired up and worked fine, unfortunately the Engine Coolant Temperature gauge didn’t work. I spliced and soldered it about 5 times, before realizing that there is nothing wrong with the wiring.  After doing research, I realized that I had an 06+ cluster (because I have the temperature gauge) and it doesn’t read the ECT the same way as an 00-05.  The ECT on an 06+ cluster reads from the CAN-BUS.

I had a gauge that would read everything but ECT. Of course, I need to know if my car is warmed up or not, so I went back on my search. I posted a post in the UK forum on S2ki wanting a 04-05 UKDM cluster, eventually a member PM’ed me and told me he could help me out. I said okay and paid him a decent sum for this cluster. It came in a couple of weeks later from England. Initially, it looked good, but after a further investigation, I noticed some fine cracks in the screen. I PM’ed the member back telling him to pay for the damages or to send me a new cluster. He said he was just the middle man, and couldn’t do it. I said whatever and just installed it. Mechanically, it worked great, everything worked, RPM, Speed, and of course the ECT. Over the next couple of weeks, my cluster would start to act funny, the ECT gauge would work on and off and my SRS light would show up. Eventually I chased this down to a ground I didn’t tighten all the way when I installed the cluster.

I finally got around to ordering a new cluster face from England a couple of weeks ago, this wasn’t cheap. It was around half the price of what I paid for cluster itself. I could have saved some money if I didn’t buy it from LING’s Honda, a dealer from the UK and bought it from a member on the forum. I didn’t want to deal with anything going wrong so I just sucked it up.

I installed my new cluster face into my cluster last week, it looks brand new. Things never seem to go the way I want them to, especially when it comes to my car. I don’t ever plan on selling this cluster in case I get a stack cluster in the future. I hope this can help someone out.

Sorry for the crappy picture, I will have a DSLR one day again!