This is my car in it’s current state…… I got a cusco cooling plate, I think it really sets off the car. It wanted a while for it, but the free shipping at corsportUSA is hard to pass up!
The chasebays engine harness, as to be expected with an aftermarket part from the US and from a company that does not have a lot of s2k experience is quite subpar. After I wired everything up, I ran into the first problem, the injectors aren’t numbered so how the heck do I know which injector plugs goes into which!?!? I know the harness isn’t labeled because it’s their cheapest option, but come on last least number the injector plugs 1-4. The second problem is that the circle spade that goes to the alternator is too small, I had to drill out the center to make it fit. The third problem is that the the oil pressure switch connector isn’t the right connector at all! I think it’s made for a civic or something.
This is the oil pressure switch that it came with
This is OEM
The Fourth problem is that the spade that goes to the battery fuse isn’t like the OEM one and does not allow for the fuse box to close. This is the one that chasebays has on their harness.
This is OEM
So the car is back together as of 2 weeks ago. There is a problem, the car is cutting off during deceleration coming to a red light. At first I thought it was an electrical problem from the way the car cuts out, which is no drama, just dead. It even cuts out when my foot is on the throttle. Kmanager shows a steady 14v when on and 12v when the car is dead, so that proves it isn’t electrical. The funny thing is that my car was running on this same exact tune before. I triple checked the ground behind the cylinder head, it’s definitely on tight. Since my car is on an alpha-n tune, I’m starting to believe it is the TPS connection itself. I did an experiment, I disconnected the TPS and gave it a rev, the car cut immediately off in the exact same manner as on the road. I’m starting to believe the connection to the TPS isn’t very good, since I cut my original socket off to install the rover unit, then cut that off and installed my original unit, installed the rover unit again because I thought something was wrong, and finally reinstalled the original connector. The first time I installed the rover unit, I cut the wire from the tps very close to the connector, so I don’t really have that much wire slack to work with. Oh yeah, before I installed the TPS the first time I accidentally cut the map sensor socket, since they look exactly the same, so my map sensor has been cut and then re-soldered on also. I’ve accidentally ripped the wires on the map sensor when I reinstalled everything…… I don’t want to mess with trying to de-pin my connectors and re-soldering it.
So what is my solution to all of this?
A new Chasebays Harness CM1. I bought this from a local member for $550 shipped. I think it’s a good deal, this usually sells on the chasebays website for 550 + me sending my core in and wait time. As with everything else in my life and aftermarket, I am not expecting this to work perfectly, but I have very high hopes! Here is a picture of it on it’s way to me! Hopefully this should hold me over, I was looking at the rywire mil-spec harnesses, maybe one day I’ll get my harness + my kpro wideband setup sent to him so he can make me a custom mil-spec harness with quick connect for those quick motor changes haha.
Oh BTW, I got a job. I’m just waiting for the security clearance to go through and I can start working. The S2k might be put on the back burner so I can pay off my student loans. I’ll try to sneak in a goodie for my s2k or two 🙂